Days 36 and 37: Van Buren to Houlton

125km/78m, 6hrs 15 mins, 20.1kph/12.5mph, 926m/3010ft of climbing.

An uneventful rest day in Van Buren. In fact, without wishing to be uncharitable, I suspect that events are few and far between in Van Buren, it's as dead as a doornail. That was no problem for me, however, given that my priorities were sleep and eat, in that order.

And it was coldish, and wettish, so the decision to take a day off was vindicated. Especially so as today was really nice. Quite sunny, warmish, not much wind. I was riding pretty much due south today. I'm still quite a long way north of Toronto, and it makes sense to ride parallel to the mountains before crossing them in a few days. So, a day of rolling countryside and alternating forest and farmland. Lots of potatoes grown here. And to my surprise I was riding through Amish country for a short time. I had no idea there were Amish settlements this far north, but as I passed one homestead a little boy in the usual black suit and straw hat waved shyly at me, and for the next few miles there was a succession of plainly-dressed, straw-hatted, bearded men driving ponies and traps; all rather gravely acknowledging me as I rode by.

Tonight in a Motel on the outskirts of Houlton, rather less of a one-horse town than Van Buren, though far from metropolitan. Admirable candour from the young lady on the desk. She asked where I'd ridden from and when I said Toronto, she looked at me for a long time before saying, quite kindly, "you're crazy".